THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

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THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by Woodie on Thu Sep 28, 2017 1:45 pm

So many of us have at sometime sat and watched the temperature needle going up and up.
I have ALWAYS advocated fitting a Cooling Fan Override Switch.

I fitted the first one to my 1300 Pickup after I bought it in 2003 and it overheated in a traffic queue. I had to pull out of the queue and head back in the direction I had come from and take a circuitous detour through the countryside to my original destination.

It is better to start cooling the engine down BEFORE it starts to overheat. Prevention rather than cure. Once the temperature has reached 95°-100° then the fan is going to really struggle to get the temperature down when stuck in a traffic queue. It also puts a heavy strain on the Alternator too. When the fan cuts in on tick-over the engine revs drop considerably, and often will set the Alternator Belt squeezing.

So I have developed an easy to fit Fan Override Kit for £30+£5 Tracked Postage, but it is for the 1300 ONLY. The switch sits on the Centre Console and is an illuminated Red Rocker Switch. It is easy enough to fit. All the connectors and wires and cable ties etc are provided. Just got to find some time to sort out all the photos and make a step by step guide to fitting it.

Yesterday I was out in my "Alladins Cave" as Raggy calls it and found a load more sensors and relays and switches. I learned something new to me too. There are 5 different Fan Sensors. There are four with the large thread and one smaller one which is only fitted to the 1300 on the metal pipe under the Passenger Seat. Usually the larger thread is is used on the 1300 metal pipe.

The 993cc models and 1200 Diesel have the 3 varieties of the large bodied Sensor with Green being the most common and cuts in at 90°~95°or 95°~100°. The Blue one fitted usually to the Diesel cuts in at 87°~92° or 92°~97°

Then we have the HOLY GRAIL. It is Black and I think once again came from a Diesel I broke up. It cuts in at 83°~87 and 87°~92. This one I am putting in my MPV despite having the Override Switch in case I am distracted
whenst in a traffic queue. On the Isle of Wight??? Yep does happen occasionally, which is why I tend to forget to keep an eye on the Temperature Gauge.

So there we have it. Each Sensor has two settings. The black and white wire is the Common terminal but without crawling under my MPV and swopping the wires around on the Sensor I'm not sure at the moment. When I have had a chance to check I will post my results on here.




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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by elfin girl on Sat Sep 30, 2017 1:58 pm

Hmmm, that's interesting I wonder what I've got on mine, I seem to remember the bloke who owned it before had had fan issues and initially fitted an override switch before sorting the problem
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by danielfrisbee on Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:04 pm

my van is a 1.3 but has never shown any signs of over-heating, and was much loved by it's previous 1 owner. Do I need to be thinking about such things and trying to future proof it?
I am just looking into doing a bit of a camper conversion and taking it to spain/portugal next year and maybe stay there so not against trying to make it invincible. I'd just be worried that as soon as I start tinkering with it the spell will be broken and everything will start going wrong..!
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by Woodie on Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:29 pm

Hi Daniel. Longtime no hear. 6 months. Which by the sounds of it is good as it means no problem with your van, which has got to be good for you.

I must admit that I am a great advocate of
"If it is not broken - then leave well alone".
As you are trundling off to warmer climates then it may be a prudent move to fit a Fan Override Switch, and a Black Temperature Sensor too. The last thing you want is overheating problems the "Other side of the Channel". It can be bad enough on home territory - never mind somewhere abroad.
I have got a clue about how much a Temperature Sensor from Daihatsu would be. But what price peace of mind??
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by danielfrisbee on Sat Sep 30, 2017 2:56 pm

there is some kind of switch, but i don't really understand it. as I recall if i switch it it kind of makes a whirring noise for a bit. Having read about hijets so much i get the impression some of the over heating ones are suffering due to badly fixed cooling systems that then never really recover, so i'm pretending mine is a kind of sealed unit that's good for another 100,000 miles.. however it's also the case that i only use the van maybe once every two or three weeks for maybe an hour, so it's more like a museum piece just parked outside where i'm living. So in that sense, if I did start using it more it might all just fall to bits- hoping not!
Having said that, my loosely planned trip to take it to spain and portugal wouldn't involve that much driving, just occasionally moving it around and then mainly cycling and canoeing.. (well, that's the idea anyway..)

If you're telling me i need to do this mod I bow to your infinite wisdom- just wary as I said that my incompetence/bad luck will just get it all to blow up in my face.

Glad to hear you're still bouncing around! I guess that leg is up and 'running'-?
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by biofos on Wed Oct 04, 2017 5:41 pm

Just for clarity does the fan override kit you are developing include a new fan sensor? Or is the kit purely the switch, wires, connectors etc? Many of us have followed your lead and wired in an override switch but, like you, are still concerned about the stress on the fan motor and the alternator if we leave it a little late switching it on, so it makes a lot of sense to put in a lower temperature sensor. I suppose it's a matter of knowing what temperature range sensor is available, which to choose, where to get it and how to fit it.
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by Raggy on Thu Oct 05, 2017 7:38 am

The kit is only the switch etc and not the sensor. Mine is a 993 and I have an override switch fitted but I am looking to get a sensor with a different temp range. They don’t cost much so I may need to get one or two to get it right for what I want but still cheaper than a good inline variable temp sensor. It’s all about prevention than cure, as switch and sensor won’t stop an oveheating engine but it will probably prolong a good ones life. It’s also about reducing engine heat soak as well I think as when we have been driving it along and getting hot, we’d then just stop. At lights an running yes the switch or temp switch will cut the fan in but it when w come to the end of the journey that the problem occurs. We normally just stop and switch off....but that’s when cooling of the aluminium head and cast metal block cool at different rates with no assistance as when we stop at lights an th heat just builds in the engine before naturally cooling....but at different rates. Have you noticed modern cars when stopped tend to have a fan running when topped, surprising how much modern cars have their fans running. Trouble is how much air can we get into the engine bay after we have stopped a there Is a bulkhead behind the radiator so not like we could blow air into engine bay to help. Race cars use separate electric water pumps to assist post stop cooling an fan that run on, not really a solution for us so in the mean time keeping it cool whilst running I the solution an maybe keeping th3 3ngin running a little rather than jut s2sitching of straight away....can you tell I have too much time on my hands thinking about this issue Very Happy
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by biofos on Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:21 am

Raggy: I agree with you. I have one of those Head Up Displays in my 1.3 and have watched the engine temperature rise after switching off (and ignition straight back on again but without starting the engine); simply stood the temp will increase by 5-8-10 degrees before natural cooling starts to work. Not good. So we either keep the engine temperature lower by having a lower range thermostat/sensor or work out some form of after-cooling like the modern cars. The former raises questions of keeping the engine at optimum working temperature for economy etc, whereas the latter can't really be done by cooling the radiator only (as you observe); we need to cool the engine lump. And if we could design a secondary cooling system for the lump is the battery capable of running a fan for 5 minutes without the alternator charging? Interesting problem - and I don't think you've got too much time on your hands at all Very Happy
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by scotia on Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:46 am

the design of the carry is different to , the fan of the carry runs constantly.
the more you push the gaspedal the harder it goes.
if you look at the pictures you can see that the front is totaly closed (no grill etc)
and the radiator isnt even on the front to..  its between the front tyres instead of the front of the van.
my tempgauge runs about a third/quarter of the gauge and when driving in heavy traffic and hot temps it only goes to about half of the gauge.

the carry also has a winter/summer switch option for the air inlet.. but i think that only has to do with the carb freezing up..







no i am not making fun or want to bath in the glory of the carrys wonderfull coolingsystem, i post it for those who are interested and are thinking about coolingsystems. (so please stop the carry bashing.. its not ment like that )


Last edited by scotia on Thu Oct 05, 2017 11:03 am; edited 1 time in total
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by scotia on Thu Oct 05, 2017 10:52 am

biofos wrote:Raggy: I agree with you. I have one of those Head Up Displays in my 1.3 and have watched the engine temperature rise after switching off (and ignition straight back on again but without starting the engine); simply stood the temp will increase by 5-8-10 degrees before natural cooling starts to work. Not good. So we either keep the engine temperature lower by having a lower range thermostat/sensor or work out some form of after-cooling like the modern cars. The former raises questions of keeping the engine at optimum working temperature for economy etc, whereas the latter can't really be done by cooling the radiator only (as you observe); we need to cool the engine lump. And if we could design a secondary cooling system for the lump is the battery capable of running a fan for 5 minutes without the alternator charging? Interesting problem - and I don't think you've got too much time on your hands at all Very Happy

i had a charade 1.0 GTti turbo once and that had a turbo timer on it so it would run/cool for some time after i parked the car and automaticly shut of after a couple of minutes.
you could mod it to run for different lenghts of time.
maybe something like that could be adjusted for the hijet?
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by Raggy on Thu Oct 05, 2017 12:23 pm

Thanks, its an interesting conundrum. Did have a quick look at fleabay last night whilst thinking about this for timer ideas and looked at turbo timers. With the carry its a solution but as we have noticed with the hijet its an issue as its not a straight through airflow through rad to engine due to bulkhead. Further thinking required...
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Re: THE HOLY GRAIL OF HI-JET PARTS.

Post by biofos on Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:30 am

Didn't know about the Carry's different system. Looks like their engineer's did a better job on design and execution. Following a bit more thought it strikes me that lowering the manufacturers optimum operating temperature too much could lead to problems with the computer controlled injection system on the 1.3. It would be a hit and miss process to find the correct temperature sensor that delivers the required outcome and also mean draining/refilling/bleeding the system each time you try a different sensor. You'd also need to know at what range the engine thermostat opens/shuts as well as the fan sensor kick in point and how effective your system is as far as the radiator caps go at raising the boiling point of the coolant and try to balance them all. That's a lot of variables.

If it can't be done that way the only option is a secondary thermostatically controlled fan fitted with a timed run-on relay that will operate for say 3 minutes after you switch off a hot engine. This would also have the advantage of providing additional automatic cooling in traffic. But, and it's a big but, is there room for a secondary fan in the engine compartment? There might be enough room for a 7" or 8" fan fixed to brackets suspended from the front lip of the two access holes under the seats. It looks like a hell of a lot of work though.

When I had the engine protection pan off last year I briefly thought about fitting an air scoop cum air ram to the front part to direct a permanent blast of air to the engine. This would be quite easy to do but it wouldn't resolve low speed/traffic jam problems so I didn't pusue it further.

Although I've not had any over-heating problems with my MPV at all, I do worry that the basic design of the system, if not flawed, is weak. I'll be very interested in the conclusions Woodie reaches in his sensor experiments. In the mean time as Raggy says - more thinks required Very Happy
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